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• Anne having her one and only asthmatic attack at Khama Rhino Sanctuary, presumably from the Permethrin sprayed onto the inside of the RTT before leaving.
• Tree rats in vehicle fom CKGR northwards for some weeks.
• Nearly picking up a puff adder at Sunday Pan CKGR.
• Tick infestation at Passarge Pan campsite no 2, CKGR.
• The very tough mutton ribs bought at Beef Boyz in Maun.
• Sandy campsites in Savuti, Chobe NP.


• The confusion about the Comesa (yellow card) car insurance.
• The night at Kwacha Lodge, Samfya, Lake Bangweulu.
• Bad roads in northern Zambia, waterfall area.
• Stuck in mud twice at Bangweulu Swamps.


• The bad and tediously long road between Tabora and Dodoma and on to Kigoma, mainly on deviations.
• False speeding fine near Lake Victoria.
• Broken rear axle near Kigoma.
• Simba Campsite, Ngorongora.
• The approach road from the south into Serengeti, between Ngorongora and Naabi Gate.
• My 3 week febrile illness and the poor medical assessments at the private clinics in Arusha.
• The driving of bus drivers especially on the minor roads.


Driving well into the night from the Tanzanian border all the way to Kigali. Narrow roads with plenty pedestrians and animals.


• Relative paucity of animals in QENP.
• Murchison Falls NP south of the Nile. Minimal wildlife to see.


• Extorting, corrupt Kenyan policeman (only 2 occasions).
• Encounter with taxi driver, Nairobi.
• Traffic in Nairobi CBD.
• The reactions of the game rangers during the wildebeest crossings in the Mara Triangle.
• Admin required in Nairobi for onward trip to Ethiopia and Sudan.


• Camping at the Rira sub-HQ office, near Katcha, Bale NP.
• The attitude of the community-based guide at Bale NP.
• Courtyard camping at Fogera Lodge, Gondar.
• Camping at Africa House Hotel in Axum.
• Camping at Wimm’s Holland House Addis Ababa.
• Addis Ababa in general.
• Stone throwing around Lalibela.
• Begging and lack of respect from Ethiopians.
• The extremely potholed and lengthy approach road to the Moyale border post with Kenya.
• The attitude of the Ethiopian border officials at Moyale.


South Africa.

The 80km potholed road between Bultfonten via Hopetown to Bloemhof in the Northern Free State.


• CKGR, Rakops turnoff to Matswere gate to Deception Pan.
• From A3 to South Camp, Nxai Pan.

• The road under reconstruction from Lusaka to South Luangwa NP.
• The drive to Bangweulu Swamps.
• The roads to the Lumangwe Falls in Luapulala Province, Zambia.
• The unplayable rocky road to Isanga Bay Lodge, Lake Tanganyika.


• The north to south minor roads from Katavi NP to Mbeya.
• The road under reconstruction between Dodoma and Kigoma, via Tabora.
• The potholed and deteriorated tarmac between Bihalamulo and the Rwanda border at Rusumu Falls.


The very potholed road along the south coast, approaching the border post with Tanzania.


• The final approach ~20km to Arte Ale volcano.
• The last few hundred km to the Moyale border post.


1. The relative lack of game in central Moremi in April.
2. The foot and mouth outbreak inhibiting our planned sortie further west in the Caprivi, Namibia.
3. Forest Inn campsite, Zambia. Too close to the noisy Great North Road.
4. Being too soon after the rainy season to do the South to North Luangwa NP traverse.
5. Mutinondo Campsite Zambia, lackluster in many respects.
6. The Kulandile Waterfalls in Zambia.
7. The really bad roads in the waterfall areas of north-western Zambia.
8. Many of the major East African cities.
9. The relative paucity of other self-drive travelers.
10. The lack of game in Ruaha, specifically on drives to the east.
11. The effect of elephant poaching in Selous Game Reserve.
12. Not visiting Lake Natron because of adverse reports, should have had a look, for our own assessment.
13. Tunza Lodge (Tanzania) and Lake Victoria in general.
14. Muschison Falls NP, Uganda, only that part south of the Nile, that part north of the Nile was great.
15. Not meeting up with friends either at the Mara or Nairobi, despite their best efforts.
16. Should have spent more days in Serengeti despite the expense.
17. Ditto for Masai Mara, only one night at Sand River campsite.
18. The food at the Forodhani Gardens, Zanzibar.
19. The people of Ethiopia.
20. Poor Ethiopian campsites.
21. Ethiopian food, injera and the likes.
22. Lake Kivu, Rwanda.
23. The Red Sea, north of Port Sudan.
24. Not feeling free to take photos in urban areas in Sudan.
25. The restrictions on independent explorations in Egypt, no off the beaten track driving allowed because of security concerns, leading to us not visiting Egypt.


1. Crossing into Zambia via the seldom-used Sigalamwe/Imusho border post between Caprivi and Zambia via the Sioma NP.
2. Exploring the Caprivi Strip in Namibia more extensively, specifically to the west. Our movements curtailed by the recent outbreak of Foot and Mouth disease and the resultant restrictions in transporting meat.
3. Not revisiting the Zambezi in southwestern Zambia.
4. Missing the Kalambo Falls in northern Zambia near Lake Tanganyika.
5. Being too early to do the South to North Luangwa traverse in Zambia.
6. Not visiting Lake Natron, Tanzania because of adverse reports.
7. Not visiting Semuliki NP in Uganda.
8. Skipping Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary in Uganda.
9. Not detouring to Kakamega Forest Reserve and Eldoret in Kenya, we felt we had seen enough forests, primates and birds.
10. Deciding against a visit to Lake Nakuru, apparently very few if any flamingos.
11. Not going to Harrar, Ethiopia to see the Hyena Man.
12. Not visiting the rock-hewn cliff-edge churches of the Tigrai, Ethiopia.
13. Not managing to arrange some days at Gheralta Lodge, Tigrai, Ethiopia. Fully booked!
13. Not visiting Sudan, north of Khartoum, along the Nile River.
14. Not making it to Lamu Island Kenya.
15. Not spending time in Malawi, Northern Mozambique and Eastern Zimbabwe en route home. Been there before, will be saved for another trip.
16. Not visiting Moshi and Kilimanjaro, Tanazania.
17. Not taking the route via the Usumbara Mountains in Tanzania.